Engineering apparel fabrics and garments The Textile Institute and Woodhead Publishing The Textile Institute is a unique organisation in textiles, clothing and footwear. Incorporated in England by a Royal Charter granted in 1925, the Institute has individual and corporate members in over 90 countries. The aim of the Institute is to facilitate learning, recognise achievement, reward excellence and disseminate information within the global textiles, clothing and footwear industries. Historically, The Textile Institute has published books of interest to its members and the textile industry.
To maintain this policy, the Institute has entered into partnership with Woodhead Publishing Limited to ensure that Institute members and the textile industry continue to have access to high calibre titles on textile science and technology. Most Woodhead titles on textiles are now published in collaboration with The Textile Institute. Through this arrangement, the Institute provides an Editorial Board which advises Woodhead on appropriate titles for future publication and suggests possible editors and authors for these books. Each book published under this arrangement carries the Institute’s logo.
Woodhead books published in collaboration with The Textile Institute are offered to Textile Institute members at a substantial discount. These books, together with those published by The Textile Institute that are still in print, are offered on the Woodhead web site at: www. Textile Institute books still in print are also available directly from the Institute’s web site at: www. A list of Woodhead books on textile science and technology, most of which have been published in collaboration with The Textile Institute, can be found at the end of the contents pages.
Woodhead Publishing in Textiles: Number 96 Engineering apparel fabrics and garments J. Hunter Oxford Cambridge New Delhi Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute Woodhead Publishing Limited, Abington Hall, Granta Park, Great Abington, Cambridge CB21 6AH, UK www.com Woodhead Publishing India Private Limited, G-2, Vardaan House, 7/28 Ansari Road, Daryaganj, New Delhi – 110002, India Published in North America by CRC Press LLC, 6000 Broken Sound Parkway, NW, Suite 300, Boca Raton, FL 33487, USA First published 2009, Woodhead Publishing Limited and CRC Press LLC © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2009 The authors have asserted their moral rights. Every effort has been made to trace and acknowledge ownership of copyright. The publishers will be glad to hear from any copyright holders whom it has not been possible to contact.
This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated. Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the authors and the publishers cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials. Neither the authors nor the publishers, nor anyone else associated with this publication, shall be liable for any loss, damage or liability directly or indirectly caused or alleged to be caused by this book.
Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfilming and recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from Woodhead Publishing Limited. The consent of Woodhead Publishing Limited does not extend to copying for general distribution, for promotion, for creating new works, or for resale. Specific permission must be obtained in writing from Woodhead Publishing Limited for such copying. Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation, without intent to infringe.
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. Woodhead Publishing ISBN 978-1-84569-134-9 (book) Woodhead Publishing ISBN 978-1-84569-644-3 (e-book) CRC Press ISBN 978-1-4398-0972-3 CRC Press order number N10093 The publishers’ policy is to use permanent paper from mills that operate a sustainable forestry policy, and which has been manufactured from pulp which is processed using acid-free and elemental chlorine-free practices. Furthermore, the publishers ensure that the text paper and cover board used have met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.
Typeset by SNP Best-set Typesetter Ltd., Hong Kong Printed by TJ International Limited, Padstow, Cornwall, UK Contents Author contact details xi Woodhead Publishing in Textiles xiii Preface xix 1 Handle and making-up performance of fabrics and garments 1 L.2 Fabric Objective Measurement (FOM) of fabric handle and making-up performance 4 1.4 Effects of fibre properties 28 1.5 Effects of yarn properties 30 1.6 Effects of fabric properties 31 1.7 Effects of dyeing and finishing (chemical and mechanical) treatments 33 1.9 Sources of further information and advice 42 1.10 References 42 2 Wrinkling of fabrics and garments 52 L.2 The measurement of wrinkle and crease recovery 54 2.3 Surface smoothness after repeated laundering 55 2.4 Factors affecting fabric wrinkling and recovery 55 2.5 Factors affecting wrinkling during wear 57 2.6 Effects of fibre properties 58 2.7 Effects of yarn and fabric parameters 62 2.8 Effects of fibre, yarn and fabric processing parameters 65 2.9 Sources of further information and advice 67 2.11 References 68 v vi Contents 3 Pilling of fabrics and garments 71 L.2 Effects of fibre composition and properties 75 3.3 Effects of yarn structure and properties 79 3.4 Effects of fabric structure and properties 81 3.5 Effects of fibre, yarn and fabric processing parameters 82 3.6 Sources of further information and advice 83 3.8 References 85 4 Bagging of fabrics and garments 87 L.2 The measurement of bagging 90 4.3 Effects of fibre properties 95 4.4 Effects of yarn properties 96 4.5 Effects of fabric properties 96 4.6 Effects of garment construction 97 4.7 Effect of finishing 97 4.8 Fabric bagging prediction and modelling 97 4.9 Sources of further information and advice 99 4.11 References 100 5 Fabric and garment drape 102 L.3 Engineering fabric drape 107 5.4 Empirical prediction of drape 111 5.5 Modelling fabric and garment drape 117 5.6 Drape models in CAD and Internet systems 121 5.7 Sources of further information and advice 124 5.9 References 125 6 Appearance issues in garment processing 131 J.2 Seam appearance 131 Contents vii 6.3 Appearance issues in fusing 141 6.4 Appearance issues in garment dyeing 147 6.5 Appearance issues in pressing 152 6.6 Storage and packaging 155 6.8 References 157 7 Durability of fabrics and garments 161 L.3 Fabric and garment strength 174 7.4 Effects of dyeing and finishing on fabric strength 193 7.5 Modelling and predicting fabric strength 194 7.6 Sources of further information and advice 195 7.8 References 195 8 Physiological comfort of fabrics and garments 201 J.2 Different aspects of clothing physiological comfort 202 8.4 Assessment of tactile comfort 208 8.6 Liquid water transport properties of fabrics and clothing 227 8.7 Garment fit and ease of body movement 234 8.10 References 242 9 Psychological comfort of fabrics and garments 251 J.2 Assessment of psychological comfort 252 9.3 Factors affecting psychological comfort 254 9.4 Effects of colour and surface texture 254 9.5 Effect of garment design 257 9.6 Effects of garment sizing and fit 258 9.7 Fashion and prejudice 258 9.9 References 259 viii Contents 10 Flammability of fabrics and garments 261 J.3 Index for burning behaviour of textiles 262 10.4 Effects of fibre composition, structure and properties 264 10.5 Effects of yarn structure and properties 267 10.6 Effects of fabric structure and properties 270 10.7 Effects of fibre, yarn and fabric processing parameters 271 10.8 Effect of garment design 274 10.9 Test methods and standards for textiles and apparel 275 10.11 References 280 11 Waterproofing and breathability of fabrics and garments 283 L.3 Measurement of waterproofing and breathability 286 11.4 Engineering fabric and garment breathability 289 11.6 Construction of showerproof garments 300 11.7 Comparative fabric and garment properties 304 11.8 Sources of further information and advice 304 11.10 References 305 12 Ultraviolet protection of fabrics and garments 309 L.2 Measurement of UV protection 318 12.3 Effects of fibre properties 324 12.4 Effects of yarn properties 327 12.5 Effects of fabric structure and properties 327 12.6 Effects of dyeing, finishing and other chemical treatments 330 12.7 Sources of further information and advice 333 12.9 References 334 Contents ix 13 Laundry performance of fabrics and garments 339 L.4 Effects of fibre composition, structure and properties 341 13.5 Effects of sewing thread linear density 348 13.6 Effects of fabric structure and properties 348 13.7 Effects of colouration and finishing 351 13.8 Effect of garment design 353 13.9 Test methods and standards related to laundering and care labelling 356 13.11 References 358 14 Applications of artificial intelligence in fabric and garment engineering 361 J.3 Artificial neural networks (ANNs) 365 14.5 References 379 Index 383 Author contact details Professor Lawrance Hunter Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University Fibres and Textiles Competence Area CSIR PO Box 1124 Port Elizabeth South Africa Email: lawrance.za and Professor Jintu Fan Institute of Textiles and Clothing The Hong Kong Polytechnic University Hung Hom Kowloon Hong Kong Email: tcfanjt@inet.hk xi Woodhead Publishing in Textiles 1 Watson’s textile design and colour Seventh edition Edited by Z. Grosicki 2 Watson’s advanced textile design Edited by Z. Grosicki 3 Weaving Second edition P. Mohamed 4 Handbook of textile fibres Vol 1: Natural fibres J.
Gordon Cook 5 Handbook of textile fibres Vol 2: Man-made fibres J. Gordon Cook 6 Recycling textile and plastic waste Edited by A. Horrocks 7 New fibers Second edition T. Phillips 8 Atlas of fibre fracture and damage to textiles Second edition J.
Cooke 9 Ecotextile ¢98 Edited by A. Horrocks 10 Physical testing of textiles B. Saville 11 Geometric symmetry in patterns and tilings C. Horne 12 Handbook of technical textiles Edited by A.
Anand 13 Textiles in automotive engineering W. Hardcastle 14 Handbook of textile design J. Wilson 15 High-performance fibres Edited by J. Hearle xiii xiv Woodhead Publishing in Textiles 16 Knitting technology Third edition D.
Spencer 17 Medical textiles Edited by S. Anand 18 Regenerated cellulose fibres Edited by C. Woodings 19 Silk, mohair, cashmere and other luxury fibres Edited by R. Franck 20 Smart fibres, fabrics and clothing Edited by X.
Tao 21 Yarn texturing technology J. Wilson 22 Encyclopedia of textile finishing H-K. Rouette 23 Coated and laminated textiles W. Fung 24 Fancy yarns R.
Wright 25 Wool: Science and technology Edited by W. Crawshaw 26 Dictionary of textile finishing H-K. Rouette 27 Environmental impact of textiles K. Slater 28 Handbook of yarn production P.
Lord 29 Textile processing with enzymes Edited by A. Cavaco-Paulo and G. Gübitz 30 The China and Hong Kong denim industry Y. Yeung 31 The World Trade Organization and international denim trading Y.
Newton 32 Chemical finishing of textiles W. Hauser 33 Clothing appearance and fit J. Hunter 34 Handbook of fibre rope technology H. O’Hear Woodhead Publishing in Textiles xv 35 Structure and mechanics of woven fabrics J.
Hu 36 Synthetic fibres: nylon, polyester, acrylic, polyolefin Edited by J. McIntyre 37 Woollen and worsted woven fabric design E. Gilligan 38 Analytical electrochemistry in textiles P. Kiekens 39 Bast and other plant fibres R.
Franck 40 Chemical testing of textiles Edited by Q. Fan 41 Design and manufacture of textile composites Edited by A. Long 42 Effect of mechanical and physical properties on fabric hand Edited by H. Behery 43 New millennium fibers T.
Phillips 44 Textiles for protection Edited by R. Scott 45 Textiles in sport Edited by R. Shishoo 46 Wearable electronics and photonics Edited by X. Tao 47 Biodegradable and sustainable fibres Edited by R.
Blackburn 48 Medical textiles and biomaterials for healthcare Edited by S. Kennedy 49 Total colour management in textiles Edited by J. Xin 50 Recycling in textiles Edited by Y. Wang 51 Clothing biosensory engineering Y.
Wong 52 Biomechanical engineering of textiles and clothing Edited by Y. Dai 53 Digital printing of textiles Edited by H. Ujiie xvi Woodhead Publishing in Textiles 54 Intelligent textiles and clothing Edited by H. Mattila 55 Innovation and technology of women’s intimate apparel W.
Ng 56 Thermal and moisture transport in fibrous materials Edited by N.