Textile and Clothing Design Technology Textile and Clothing Design Technology Edited by Tom Cassidy Parikshit Goswami CRC Press Taylor & Francis Group 6000 Broken Sound Parkway NW, Suite 300 Boca Raton, FL 33487-2742 © 2018 by Taylor & Francis Group, LLC CRC Press is an imprint of Taylor & Francis Group, an Informa business No claim to original U. Government works Printed on acid-free paper International Standard Book Number-13: 978-1-4987-9639-2 (Hardback) This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the author and publisher cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materi- als or the consequences of their use. The authors and publishers have attempted to trace the copyright holders of all material reproduced in this publication and apologize to copyright holders if permission to publish in this form has not been obtained.
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Trademark Notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identifica- tion and explanation without intent to infringe. Library of Congress Cataloging‑in‑Publication Data Names: Cassidy, Tom, Professor of design, editor. | Goswami, Parikshit, editor. Title: Textile and clothing design technology / [edited by] Tom Cassidy, Parikshit Goswami.
Description: Boca Raton : Taylor & Francis, a CRC title, part of the Taylor & Francis imprint, a member of the Taylor & Francis Group, the academic division of T&F Informa, plc, [2018] | Includes bibliographical references and index. Identifiers: LCCN 2017026567 | ISBN 9781498796392 (hardback :acid-free paper) | ISBN 9781315156163 (ebook) Subjects: LCSH: Textile design. | Clothing and dress. Classification: LCC TS1475 .022--dc23 LC record available at https://lccn.gov/2017026567 Visit the Taylor & Francis Web site at http://www.com and the CRC Press Web site at http://www.com Contents Editors .1 Tom Cassidy and Parikshit Goswami 2.
Fibers and Filaments .5 Tom O’Haire and Parikshit Goswami 3. 27 Tom Cassidy and Dian Li 4. Continuous Filament and Texturized Synthetic Yarns. Fiber and Filament Dyeing.
109 Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury 7. 143 Lindsey Waterton Taylor 8. Weft-Knitted Fabrics. Warp-Knitted Fabrics.
227 Sadhan Chandra Ray and Mirela Blaga 10. 259 Muhammad Tausif and Parikshit Goswami 11. Fabric Dyeing and Printing. 281 Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury 12.
357 Andrew J Hebden and Parikshit Goswami v vi Contents 14. Stitches and Seams. Knitwear Design Technology. The Measurement of Textile Material Properties .463 Riikka Räisänen 18.
Textile and Clothing Consultancy. 479 Tom Cassidy and Dian Li Index. 499 Editors Professor Tom Cassidy holds the chair of design in the University of Leeds, Leeds, United Kingdom. He holds four degrees (ATI, MSc, MBA, and PhD) and is a fellow of the Design Research Society (FRDS).
He has been in education for 38 years following 9 years in the industry. He has carried out many consultancies, both nationally and internationally since the late 1970s, for agencies such as the UN, ODA, and Hong Kong Polytechnic University, King’s Park, Hong Kong. Professor Cassidy is a regular reviewer for the Textile Research Journal, Measurement Science and Technology, the Journal of the Textile Institute, and many other academic journals. He is on the editorial board of the Journal of Fiber Bioengineering and Informatics, Textile Progress, and the Journal of Global Fashion Marketing.
He has super- vised 25 PhD students and 3 MPhil students to completion and is currently supervising 10 students. Professor Cassidy’s research interests are wide and span most areas of design technology and management with particular strengths in textile and clothing design tech- nology and education. He has held grants from the EPSRC and the AHRC for projects in design technology and design management. Professor Parikshit Goswami (BSc (Tech), MSc, PhD, MRSC, ASDC, C Col, ATI, CText) obtained a bachelor’s degree in textile technology and then worked within different industries, including a world leading third-party textile testing and quality certification company.
Subsequently, he did his MSc in Advanced Textile and Performance Clothing and earned his PhD from the University of Leeds. Professor Goswami is presently the Head of Department of Fashion and Textiles at University of Huddersfield. Prior to join- ing University of Huddersfield, Professor Goswami was the Director of Research and Innovation at the School of Design, University of Leeds and he lead the Fibre and Fabric Functionalisation Research Group. Professor Goswami’s domains of research are product development using flexible materi- als and application of chemistry for functionalising textiles.
Professor Goswami manages a large profile of research concerned with fibre/polymer science, nonwovens, medical tex- tiles (implantable materials and non-implantable materials), sustainable materials (fun- damentally understand the properties of new material), application and development of nano/submicron fibres for novel applications, and plasma treatment for functionalising textiles and textile chemistry.He is a member of Society of Dyers and Colourists (SDC), Education, Qualifications and Accreditation Board (EQAB), and was a member of EDANA’s Board Working Group on Sustainability. vii Contributors Mirela Blaga Aileen Jefferson Gheorghe Asachi Technical University Manchester Metropolitan University of Iaşi Manchester, United Kingdom Iaşi, Romania Dian Li Tom Cassidy School of Design School of Design University of Leeds University of Leeds Leeds, United Kingdom Leeds, United Kingdom John McLoughlin Tracy Cassidy Manchester Metropolitan University University of Huddersfield Manchester, United Kingdom Huddersfield, United Kingdom Sandip Mukherjee Arobindo Chatterjee National Institute of Fashion Technology Department of Textile Technology Kolkata, India Dr. Ambedkar National Institute of Technology Jalandhar Riikka Räisänen Jalandhar, India Craft Studies University of Helsinki Hugh Gong Helsinki, Finland School of Materials University of Manchester Manchester, United Kingdom Sadhan Chandra Ray University of Calcutta Parikshit Goswami Kolkata, India Head of Department Department of Fashion and Textiles Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury University of Huddersfield KPS Institute of Polytechnic Huddersfield, United Kingdom Government College of Engineering & Textile Technology Serampore Tom O’Haire Serampore, India Fibre and Fabric Functionalisation Research Group Muhammad Tausif School of Design Fibre and Fabric Functionalisation University of Leeds Research Group Leeds, United Kingdom School of Design University of Leeds Andrew J Hebden Leeds, United Kingdom Fibre and Fabric Functionalisation Group Lindsey Waterton Taylor School of Design School of Design University of Leeds University of Leeds Leeds, United Kingdom Leeds, United Kingdom ix 1 Introduction Tom Cassidy and Parikshit Goswami Technology, before the word was hijacked by the computer community in the 1970s, was defined as the science of the useful arts. This definition is particularly relevant to what this book is about.
In the past, the education of textile technologists tended to be process oriented. The technologist today is better prepared for the textile and related industries by being product oriented and by being more able to work closely with and facilitate the ideas of designers. Designers use elements like color, shape, form, silhouette, fabric, and so on combined with principles such as harmony, rhythm, symmetry, balance, to create new and exciting products (garments, fabrics, yarns, fibers, etc.) for the market. In this book, we will learn about different product types as perceived and understood by the design technologist.
In the textile industry, there is a pressing need for people who can enable the creative solutions of designers to be interpreted into manufacturing language and data. The design technologist has to understand the elements and principles employed by designers and how these change for various textile media. He or she also has to have a good understand- ing of the processes, materials, and products for which the textile designer is required to produce creative solutions. The reader will find occasional overlaps between various chapters, this is beneficial because it reflects the nature of the textile and clothing industries and it will be advantageous for the reader to appreciate more than one approach to some areas.
This book will suit designers wishing to improve their technological knowledge, technologists wishing to understand the design process, and to anyone who wants to work at this design/technology interface or to go on to R&D study in this field. In Chapter 2, Goswami and O’Haire discuss the various natural and synthetic fibers and what are the implications of their shapes, surface characteristics, and mechanical proper- ties on their use as design elements. These implications will include cost, handle, yarn spinnability, coloration, availability, and sustainability. Chapter 3 is written by Cassidy, T and Li and describes the characteristics of the conventional/traditional staple yarns and how these are influenced by the technologies used to produce them.
The chapter explains how the components of the yarns and their struc- tural values (e., fiber type, fineness and length, twist content, and direction yarn count and structure) can be considered as design elements and thus manipulated to produce the design principles desired such as balance, symmetry/asymmetry, rhythm, and harmony. This chap- ter will also discuss new and alternative staple yarn spinning methods, some of which have become established, whereas others are striving to establish their place in the market. Gong has contributed Chapter 5, which builds on the foundations laid by Chapters 3 and 4 and provides the reader with descriptions of various techniques and equipment used to produce fancy yarns, sometimes also called effect yarns. The market for these yarns tends to be subject to cyclic trends, but the handknitting yarn market provides a 1 2 Textile and Clothing Design Technology stable demand for fancy yarns.
It is important that the textile and clothing design technologist is aware of the different types of yarn available and what possible inno- vations can be brought about by using or developing this technology. The field of textile dyeing is a constantly evolving area and presents opportunities that can be addressed through innovative thinking. The primary objective of textile dyeing is to improve the aesthetic properties of textiles. In Chapter 6, Choudhury discusses dif- ferent methods of dyeing fibers and filaments and different methods of quantifying the measured color.
In Chapter 7, Taylor describes how the interlacement patterns for warp and weft yarns can be controlled by manipulating the loom operations, which include shedding, picking, beating up, and taking up. The classification of weave designs and applications are dis- cussed in detail. A particularly attractive feature of this chapter is the learning activities, which will be extremely valuable for a budding design technologist. Chapter 8 on weft knitting technology by Mukherjee explains how the adjustable mov- ing cams are used on weft knitting machines to control the movement of beard, latch, or compound needles to form normal stitches, tuck stitches, and floats.
The various knit structures and their applications are described and circular knitting including sock mak- ing. The developing technology of whole garment knitting is also explained. In Chapter 9, Ray discusses the development of warp knitting and the differences between raschel and tricot machines and their resultant fabric structures. He goes on to show how these fabrics tend to be much stiffer than weft knits and how they were origi- nally intended for upholstery but are now used quite extensively in apparels, particularly for children’s wear often in conjunction with fibers and yarns having elastic properties.
In Chapter 10, Tausif and Goswami discuss nonwoven fabric and how they are produced. They discuss key methods for web formation and web bonding to produce a myriad of nonwoven structures.