Sewing by Missy Shepler and Rebecca Kemp Brent A member of Penguin Group (USA) Inc. ALPHA BOOKS Published by the Penguin Group Penguin Group (USA) Inc., 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014, USA Penguin Group (Canada), 90 Eglinton Avenue East, Suite 700, Toronto, Ontario M4P 2Y3, Canada (a division of Pearson Penguin Canada Inc.) Penguin Books Ltd., 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, England Penguin Ireland, 25 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2, Ireland (a division of Penguin Books Ltd.) Penguin Group (Australia), 250 Camberwell Road, Camberwell, Victoria 3124, Australia (a division of Pearson Australia Group Pty.) Penguin Books India Pvt., 11 Community Centre, Panchsheel Park, New Delhi—110 017, India Penguin Group (NZ), 67 Apollo Drive, Rosedale, North Shore, Auckland 1311, New Zealand (a division of Pearson New Zealand Ltd.) Penguin Books (South Africa) (Pty., 24 Sturdee Avenue, Rosebank, Johannesburg 2196, South Africa Penguin Books Ltd., Registered Offices: 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, England Copyright © 2011 by Missy Shepler and Rebecca Kemp Brent All rights reserved. No part of this book shall be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the publisher.
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THE COMPLETE IDIOT’S GUIDE TO and Design are registered trademarks of Penguin Group (USA) Inc. International Standard Book Number: 1-101-50428-5 Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 2010913771 Note: This publication contains the opinions and ideas of its authors. It is intended to provide helpful and informative material on the subject matter covered. It is sold with the understanding that the authors and publisher are not engaged in rendering professional services in the book.
If the reader requires personal assistance or advice, a competent professional should be consulted. The authors and publisher specifically disclaim any responsibility for any liability, loss, or risk, personal or otherwise, which is incurred as a consequence, directly or indirectly, of the use and application of any of the contents of this book. For details, write: Special Markets, Alpha Books, 375 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014. Publisher: Marie Butler-Knight Book Designers: William Thomas, Rebecca Batchelor Associate Publisher: Mike Sanders Indexer: Celia McCoy Senior Managing Editor: Billy Fields Layout: Ayanna Lacey Executive Editor: Randy Ladenheim-Gil Proofreader: Laura Caddell Production Editor: Kayla Dugger Copy Editor: Amy Lepore Contents Part 1: Let’s Start Sewing!.
3 Hand-Sewing Essentials. 4 Scissors and Shears.6 Fabric and Thread .6 Threader and Thimble.7 Tape Measure, Pincushion, and Emery .8 How to Thread a Needle .8 Two Ways to Tie a Knot .9 Hiding the Knot .10 Basic Sewing Stitches .10 Straight and Running Stitches .11 Blanket or Buttonhole Stitch .13 Blind or Hemming Stitch.14 Project: Bare Necessities Needle Case.19 The Anatomy of a Sewing Machine.19 Threading the Machine.24 Basic Presser Feet.25 Basic Machine-Sewing Skills.26 Changing the Needle .26 Changing Stitch Settings .27 Stitching a Straight Line .28 A Treasury of Tools and Notions .30 Project: Biscornu Pincushion .31 3 Machine Needles and Thread. 35 Machine Needle Know-How .35 The Anatomy of a Machine Needle.35 The Point of It .36 Needle Size, System, and Type .37 Final Notes on Needles .39 iv The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Sewing Thread Tales .39 Not All Threads Are Created Equal. 40 What’s in Your Thread? .43 Estimating Project Needs.
44 Project: Create a Cord .45 4 Ready, Set, Sew! .47 Prewashed Is Prewarned .47 The Right and Wrong of It .48 Hip to Be Square .51 Match, Pin, Sew.52 An Open and Shut Case .54 Rip It! Rip It! .54 Project: Handy Hip Bag.55 5 Beyond Basic Machine Stitches .61 Standard Machine Stitches .61 Zigzag/Satin Stitch .63 Decorative Machine Stitches. 64 Advanced Utility Stitches .66 Blind Hem Stitch .67 Project: Easy-Peasy Apron .67 Part 2: Great Seams. 73 The Standard Seam .73 Seam Allowances and Guides .74 Trimming Seam Bulk .75 Seams So Fine .76 Flat-Felled Seam .78 Project: Sweet Seamed Wrap.79 Contents v 7 Fun Finishes. 83 Common Seam Finishes .83 Ordinary Cut or Raw Edges .88 Lettuce or Celery Edges .89 Project: Lettuce-Edge T-Shirt Scarf.
90 8 Throw Me a Curve .93 Same-Shape Curves.94 Easing into It .98 Project: Half-Circle Skirt. 99 Part 3: Sweet Shapes.105 9 Pleats, Tucks, and Darts. 107 Pleats Are a Kick .107 Knife or Side Pleat .112 Topstitched and Tied Tucks. 115 Double-Ended Darts.
115 Project: Hobo Bag. 121 Gathering and Ruffles.122 Thoughts on Gathering Stitches .124 Cord or Channel Gathering .126 vi The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Sewing Shirring .127 Project: Sweet Shirred Summer Dress .128 11 All About Appliqué .133 Turned-Edge Techniques .134 Invisible Machine Appliqué .136 Raw-Edge Appliqué .137 Ragged-Edge Appliqué.137 Satin-Finish Appliqué.138 The Fuss About Fusing .139 Project: Trendy Tank.140 Part 4: Textiles and Trims .147 Content and Construction .148 Weight, Hand, Drape, and Count .149 Prints, Plaids, and Directional Designs.152 Fun and Functional Finishes. 153 Buying Off the Bolt.154 Finding Fabric Information .154 Standard Fabric Widths. 155 Project: Pop-Up Storage Cube.
161 Bias Tape and Binding .163 Trim and Finish with Bias.164 DIY Bias Binding .169 Project: Double-Bind Pillow.169 Contents vii 14 Fascinating Fasteners .17 8 Types of Buttons .178 Attaching Buttons by Hand .178 Attaching Buttons by Machine .1 82 Elastic Types and Widths .183 Drawstrings and Ties.18 4 Zipper Parts and Types .185 Project: Backpack Bag .187 Part 5: Getting into Garments .19 9 Made to Measure .199 Simple Pattern Adjustments. 200 The Long and Short of It. 200 Taking In and Letting Out .201 Pin-Fitting and Muslins. 204 Altering Ready-to-Wear .205 Taking It All In .205 Tricks Up Your Sleeve .206 Mind the Gap! .209 Pattern Books and Envelopes .212 Demystifying Pattern Markings .212 Patterning a Favorite Garment .214 Another Pattern Option.214 A Guide to Guide Sheets .215 Pattern Layouts and Cutting.
216 viii The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Sewing 17 Pin, Mark, and Cut. 219 How to Pin .219 Working with Weights .221 Make Your Mark .222 Working with Dressmaker’s Tracing Paper .222 Working with Chalk and Markers .222 Working with Quick Clips and Tailor’s Tack .223 Project: The Fudd Cap .23 3 Set-In Sleeves .236 Collars and Cuffs.236 The Inside Story .237 Getting the Point .239 Facings and Linings .241 Project: Simple Shapes Jacket .247 Around the Waist .251 In-Seam Pockets .253 Hem-Edge Finishes. 255 Project: Fun Flannel Pants .256 Contents ix Appendixes A Glossary .277 Introduction We’re always amazed when people say they’ve been sewing for a certain number of years. We’ve always been stitching, in one form or another, and simply can’t pinpoint a time when we started … or stopped.
Early sewing memories include fumbling oversize yarn needles through printed sewing cards and whip-stitching wardrobes for Barbie dolls. Each of us survived our own personal sewing disasters when we were starting out, and thankfully, we’ve improved a bit since then. Through the years, we just kept stitching, even when handmade items weren’t “hip.” That’s a big part of why we’re so excited about the renewed interest in sewing. Crafty is cool again, and we couldn’t be more thrilled! Today’s sewists seem fearless, with a relaxed style of sewing that’s truly “stitch-and-go”! We see them rediscovering sewing skills in classes and online, yet struggling with some of the same techniques that troubled us, too.
That’s why we put together these sewing instructions, tips, and resources—information we wish we’d had way back when! Whether you’ve never picked up a needle and thread or are returning to the stitching life after an extended absence, you’ll find essential sewing information here. This book explains the basics of both hand and machine sewing and steps you through specific techniques with fast, fun projects to make. Plus, we’ve unpuzzled patterns, made sense of measurements, and outlined easy garment constructions. Ready to get sewing? Read on! What You’ll Find in This Book Like any other art or craft, sewing is a skill.
Once you’ve mastered the basics, you can build on that foundation. We’ve structured this book with that idea in mind, starting with simple hand-sewing skills you’ll use again and again, teaching you how to make the most of your sewing machine, and introducing and explaining the tools and materials you’ll need. We cover common terms and techniques you’ll need to know about and simplify the steps for making cute clothes that fit. And because experience is the best teacher, we’ve included numerous projects throughout so you can practice your newly learned skills.
Finally, we point you toward more information, supplies, and local connections within your own community. Here’s how it all breaks down: Part 1, Let’s Start Sewing!, introduces you to simple hand stitches and guides you through getting to know your sewing machine. We get down to details about machine needles and thread and set you straight on squaring up fabric, the importance of pressing, and other essential skills you’ll use in every project you make. We also explore standard, utility, and decorative stitches available on most machines.
Part 2, Great Seams, covers a few of the many ways to sew two or more pieces of fabric together. We show you how to sew standard and specialty seams, give common options for xii The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Sewing finishing seam edges, and offer ideas for alternative endings. We also present super-easy solutions for sewing curved shapes. Indulge your taste for texture in Part 3, Sweet Shapes.
In addition to learning how to use darts to add shape to and contour garments, you learn how to transform flat fabric with pleats, tucks, gathering, and ruffles; simple shirring; and different methods of appliqué. Part 4, Textiles and Trims, takes a closer look at fabric, fasteners, and trims. Learn what fabrics work best for specific tasks and get the inside story on linings and stabilizers. Explore trim types, make your own bias binding and piping, and try out fun trim techniques.
Expand your notions knowledge with our overview of simple fasteners and learn to attach buttons, elastic, and zippers. In Part 5, Getting into Garments, we play with patterns, taking the mystery out of body measurements and learning simple fitting techniques. You also learn to pin, mark, and cut like a pro and expand your wardrobe with basic garment construction skills. Check the appendixes at the back of the book for a glossary of common sewing terms, resources for sewing supplies, additional sewing instruction and inspiration, and tips for finding sewingrelated items in your area.
Appendix C contains hints for heading off machine mayhem, plus information on standard pattern sizes and instruction on figuring fabric yardage and conversion. Extras We’ve added extra nuggets of sewing knowledge throughout the book. Watch for these tips, definitions, and cautions: SEWING SENSE Make sense of sewing terms with these definitions and explanations. SNIP IT These tidbits are full of helpful information.
PINPRICK We’ve added these cautions to help you avoid possible problems. SEW SURPRISING These newsy little nuggets alert you to interesting and useful information. Introduction xiii Acknowledgments and Special Thanks Many people have contributed to this book. First of all, we want to thank our friends and families for excusing our extended absences (mental and otherwise) while we were working on this project.
Thanks go to Marilyn Allen of Allen O’Shea Literary Agency for making the connections; to the publishers and editors at Alpha Books for persevering with this project, especially at such a tumultuous time for the publishing industry; and to Scott Shepler for adding his considerable illustration and photography expertise to the book. We’d also like to thank Linda Turner Griepentrog, the best sewing resource in the world and our constant cheerleader.