Sizing in clothing The Textile Institute and Woodhead Publishing The Textile Institute is a unique organisation in textiles, clothing and footwear. Incorporated in England by a Royal Charter granted in 1925, the Institute has individual and corporate members in over 90 countries. The aim of the Institute is to facilitate learning, recognise achievement, reward excellence and disseminate information within the global textiles, clothing and footwear industries. Historically, The Textile Institute has published books of interest to its members and the textile industry.
To maintain this policy, the Institute has entered into partnership with Woodhead Publishing Limited to ensure that Institute members and the textile industry continue to have access to high calibre titles on textile science and technology. Most Woodhead titles on textiles are now published in collaboration with The Textile Institute. Through this arrangement, the Institute provides an Editorial Board which advises Woodhead on appropriate titles for future publication and suggests possible editors and authors for these books. Each book published under this arrangement carries the Institute’s logo.
Woodhead books published in collaboration with The Textile Institute are offered to Textile Institute members at a substantial discount. These books, together with those published by The Textile Institute that are still in print, are offered on the Woodhead web site at: www. Textile Institute books still in print are also available directly from the Institute’s website at: www. Sizing in clothing Developing effective sizing systems for ready-to-wear clothing Edited by S.
Ashdown Cambridge England Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute Woodhead Publishing Limited, Abington Hall, Abington Cambridge CB21 6AH, England www.com Published in North America by CRC Press LLC, 6000 Broken Sound Parkway, NW, Suite 300, Boca Raton, FL 33487, USA First published 2007, Woodhead Publishing Limited and CRC Press LLC © 2007, Woodhead Publishing Limited The authors have asserted their moral rights. This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated. Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the authors and the publishers cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials.
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Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation, without intent to infringe. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. Woodhead Publishing ISBN-13: 978-1-84569-034-2 (book) Woodhead Publishing ISBN-10: 1-84569-034-6 (book) Woodhead Publishing ISBN-13: 978-1-84569-258-2 (e-book) Woodhead Publishing ISBN-10: 1-84569-258-6 (e-book) CRC Press ISBN-13: 978-0-8493-9098-2 CRC Press ISBN-10: 0-8493-9098-2 CRC Press order number: WP9098 The publishers’ policy is to use permanent paper from mills that operate a sustainable forestry policy, and which has been manufactured from pulp which is processed using acid-free and elementary chlorine-free practices.
Furthermore, the publishers ensure that the text paper and cover board used have met acceptable environmental accreditation standards. Typeset by SNP Best-set Typesetter Ltd., Hong Kong Printed by TJ International Limited, Padstow, Cornwall, England Contents Contributor contact details xi Preface xvii 1 History of sizing systems and ready-to-wear garments 1 W. Aldrich, Nottingham Trent University, UK 1.2 The emergence of sizing systems 2 1.3 The beginning of systematic pattern construction and sizing 6 1.4 The impact of fashion on the development of standard sizing for women’s ready-to-wear garments 21 1.5 Methods of sizing for the emerging mass production of clothing for men 33 1.6 Sizing for the mass production of clothing in the fi rst half of the twentieth century 38 1.7 Sizing for the mass production of clothing in the second half of the twentieth century 43 1.10 References 48 2 Creating sizing systems 57 A. Petrova, Cornell University, USA 2.2 Basis of existing international sizing systems: state of sizing systems in the industry and unification of sizing 60 v vi Contents 2.3 Proposed methods for creating sizing systems 63 2.4 Changing and adjusting sizing systems 80 2.6 Sources of further information and advice 84 2.7 References 84 3 Sizing standardization 88 K.
LaBat, University of Minnesota, USA 3.2 Standardization of sizes 91 3.3 Standardization of size designations 98 3.4 International sizing standards 100 3.6 Sources of further information and advice 103 3.7 References 104 4 Sizing systems, fit models and target markets 108 J. Bougourd, University of the Arts London, UK 4.2 The apparel product development and production processes 108 4.9 References 146 5 Pattern grading 152 N. Schofi eld, University of Wisconsin–Stout, USA 5.4 Examination of the relationship between grade rules and associated body measurements 171 5.5 Grading assumptions that are the actual basis for grade rules 179 5.6 Comparison of standard graded bodice with regression fi ndings 184 5.7 Goals of grading 189 Contents vii 5.8 Conclusions and implications 192 5.9 Future trends and possibilities 194 5.10 Sources of further information and advice 197 5.11 References 198 6 Function, fit and sizing 202 H. Reffeltrath, TNO Defence, Security and Safety, The Netherlands 6.2 Human performance in clothing systems 203 6.4 Thermal aspects of fit 214 6.6 Sources of further information and advice 217 6.8 References 218 7 Communication of sizing and fit 220 J.
Chun, Yonsei University, South Korea 7.2 Communications from manufacturer to consumer 221 7.3 Communications from consumer to manufacturer 233 7.4 Impact of new technologies 238 7.6 Sources of further information and advice 240 7.7 References 243 8 Mass customization and sizing 246 S. Loker, Cornell University, USA 8.2 Strategies and technologies for mass-customized sizing 249 8.3 Body measurement selection and application 256 8.5 Sources of further information and advice 260 8.6 References 262 9 Materials and sizing 264 D. Nam, Oklahoma State University, USA 9.2 Fit judgment framework 265 9.3 Non-stretch materials 267 viii Contents 9.5 Effect of material properties on fit and sizing 270 9.8 Sources of further information and advice 275 9.9 References 275 10 Sizing for the military 277 W. Todd, Naval Air Warfare Center Aircraft Division, USA 10.2 Fit and sizing for protection of the military wearer for the mission threat 278 10.3 Military sizing systems 289 10.4 Sizing for military populations 292 10.5 Getting the right size at the right time and right place 296 10.8 Sources of further information and advice 303 10.9 References 305 11 Sizing and clothing aesthetics 309 Van Dyk Lewis, Cornell University, USA 11.3 Size and scale 310 11.4 Fit, size and re-forming the body 313 11.5 Size as a spectacle 314 11.6 Menswear and scale 316 11.7 The perfect body 319 11.8 Beauty, the individual and the fashion image 320 11.10 References 326 12 Sizing for the home sewing industry 328 S.
Lyman-Clarke and P. Palmer, Cornell University, USA 12.2 The development of the home sewing pattern industry 329 12.3 The development of sizing for the home sewing pattern 332 12.4 Measurements and sizes of paper patterns 335 12.5 Altering patterns to fit 342 Contents ix 12.6 Summary and future trends 343 12.7 Sources of further information and advice 345 12.8 References 346 13 Production systems, garment specification and sizing 348 S. Loker, Cornell University, USA 13.2 Quality control and specifications 349 13.3 Preproduction: design and pattern making 350 13.4 Preproduction: prototypes and development of size specifications 353 13.5 Preproduction: fabric testing and approval 354 13.6 Preproduction: marker making 356 13.8 Cutting and bundling 360 13.9 Interfacings and sewing 362 13.10 Finishing and labeling 366 13.11 Prevention of errors 367 13.14 Sources of further information and advice 372 13.16 References 374 Index 377 Contributor contact details (* = main contact) Editor Professor Susan P. Ashdown Department of Textiles and Apparel College of Human Ecology Cornell University 327 Martha Van Rensselaer Hall Ithaca NY 14850-4401 USA Email: spa4@cornell.edu Chapter 1 Dr W.
Aldrich 10 The Pingle Quorn Leics LE12 8FQ UK Email: winifred.com Chapter 2 Adriana Petrova Department of Fiber Science and Apparel Design College of Human Ecology Cornell University E405 Martha Van Rensselaer Hall Ithaca NY 14853 USA Email: ap256@cornell.edu xi xii Contributor contact details Chapter 3 Professor Karen L. LaBat College of Design University of Minnesota 240 McNeal Hall 1985 Burford Avenue St Paul MN 55455 USA Email: klabat@umn.edu Chapter 4 Jennifer Bougourd London College of Fashion University of the Arts London 20 John Princes Street London W1G 0BJ UK Email: jenibougourd@blueyonder.uk Chapter 5 Dr Nancy A. Schofield Engineering and Technology Department University of Wisconsin–Stout 331 Fryklund Hall Menomonie WI 54751 USA Email: schofieldn@uwstout.edu Chapter 6 Professor Hein A. Daanen* and Peter A.
Reffeltrath Department of Human Performance TNO Defence, Security and Safety PO Box 23 3769 ZG Soesterberg The Netherlands Email: daanen@tm.nl Contributor contact details xiii Chapter 7 Professor Jongsuk Chun Department of Clothing and Textiles College of Human Ecology Yonsei University 134 Sinchon-Dong Seodaemun-Gu Seoul 120-749 South Korea Email: jschun@yonsei.kr Chapter 8 Professor Suzanne Loker Department of Textiles and Apparel College of Human Ecology Cornell University 326 Martha Van Rensselaer Hall Ithaca NY 14853-4401 USA Email: sl135@cornell.edu Chapter 9 Professor Donna H. Nam Department of Design, Housing and Merchandising Institute of Protective Apparel Research and Technology Oklahoma State University 431 HES Stillwater OK 74078-6142 USA Email: donna.edu xiv Contributor contact details Chapter 10 Wendy L. Todd Department of the Navy Naval Air Systems Command 48110 Shaw Road Attn Nawcad 4681 Bldg 2187 Suite 2240 Patuxent River MD 20670-1906 USA Email: wendy.mil Chapter 11 Dr Van Dyk Lewis Department of Textiles and Apparel College of Human Ecology 323 Martha Van Rensselaer Hall Cornell University Ithaca NY 14850-4401 USA Email: vdl4@cornell.edu Chapter 12 Professor Susan P. Ashdown* and Lindsay M.
Lyman-Clarke Department of Textiles and Apparel College of Human Ecology 327 Martha Van Rensselaer Hall Cornell University Ithaca NY 14850-4401 USA Email: spa4@cornell.edu lml19@cornell.edu Pati Palmer Palmer/Pletsch Publishing 1801 N. Upshur, Ste 100 Portland, OR 97209 USA www.com Email: patipalmer@aol.com Contributor contact details xv Chapter 13 Professor Susan P. Ashdown* and Lindsay M. Lyman-Clarke Department of Textiles and Apparel College of Human Ecology 327 Martha Van Rensselaer Hall Cornell University Ithaca NY 14850-4401 USA Email: spa4@cornell.edu lml19@cornell.edu Jack Smith 5707 Hagen Court Dallas Texas 75252 USA Professor Suzanne Loker Department of Textiles and Apparel College of Human Ecology Cornell University 326 Martha Van Rensselaer Hall Ithaca NY 14853-4401 USA Email: sl135@cornell.edu Preface Since the time of the industrial revolution and the fi rst widespread introduction of mass-produced clothing the apparel industry has struggled with the inherent contradictions of providing well-fitted clothing within the constraints of economical and practical sizing systems for the variety of people in a population.
People vary along many dimensions, resulting in a multitude of sizes, proportions and postures to be accom- modated. All these differences have an impact on the fit of the constructed tailored silhouettes of clothing that are prevalent in much of the world today. Sizing issues are further confounded by differences in material proper- ties and design features of clothing, manufacturing variations, cultural and individual fit preferences, variations in the way that sizing is communicated to the consumer, and difficulties in assessing fit and the effectiveness of sizing systems overall. The complexity of sizing for clothing is unmatched by any other consumer product.