Woven Fabric Structure Design and Product Planning © 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. © 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Woven Fabric Structure Design and Product Planning J. Hayavadana WOODHEAD PUBLISHING INDIA PVT LTD New Delhi, India © 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt.
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Contents Dedication v Preface xvii 1 Introduction to fabric structure 1 1.1 The process of fabric formation 2 1.2 Important parts of loom 3 1.2 Sley or lay 4 1.6 Passage of warp through loom 5 1.4 General features of fabric 10 1.1 Group I: Classification with respect to threads per unit area 10 1.2 Group II: Classification with respect to weave 11 1.5 Elements of fabric 11 1.1 Body vs selvedge 12 1.2 Face vs back 12 1.3 Warp and weft 13 1.4 Width and weight 13 © 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt.5 Expression of weight 13 1.7 Threads/unit area (reed pick) and cover 15 1.1 Method of notation of structure or design 17 1.1 Selection of reed and its importance 20 1.8 Elements of fabric structure 21 1.9 Design or interlacement fashion (discussion is with respect to weaving only) 21 1.1 Draft or drawing plan or drawing in draft 21 1.2 Lifting plan or peg plan 22 1.3 Type of relation among elements of fabric structure 23 1.10 Construction of elements of fabric structure 23 1.1 Construction of draft from design 23 1.2 Notation for draft calculation of number of heald shafts and methods of draft indication 23 1.3 Construction of design from draft and peg plan 24 1.4 Construction of peg plan from design and draft (Fig.5 Construction of draft from design and peg plan 26 1.11 Types of draft in weaving 27 1.4 Curved drafts 31 © 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt.14 Practical aspects of fabric designing 32 1.15 Illustrative example for calculations in weaving 34 1.16 Exercises for students 35 Multiple choice questions; select the correct answer: 36 Write answers to the following in 2 or 3 sentences: 38 Essay type questions; write answers to the following: 38 References 39 2 Classification of weaves and study of plain weave 41 2.1 Characteristics of weaves 41 2.2 Classification of weaves 42 2.1 Classification of single-layered fabrics 42 2.3 Rib and cord effects in plain weave (without weave modification) 45 2.4 Modifications of plain weave 45 2.2 Modification of plain in warp way – warp rib [Figs.4 Applications of warp rib 47 2.5 Commercial significance of ribs production 47 2.6 Production of weft rib or moreen [Figs.5 Matt, hopsack or basket weaves and fabrics 50 2.1 Modification of matt: fancy matt and stitched hopsack (Figs.6 Poplin and repp fabrics 52 2.8 Classification of plain cloths 53 2.1 Basis of classification of plain cloths 53 2.1 Based on construction 53 © 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt.2 Based on weight 54 2.3 Based on cover factor 54 2.4 Based on weight factor 54 2.9 Approximately square plain cloths 54 2.1 Light-weight square plain cloths 55 2.1 Cotton dairy cloth 55 2.3 Cotton cloth for electrical insulation 55 2.4 Cotton tracing cloth 56 2.5 Cotton filter cloth 56 2.6 Cotton typewriter ribbon fabric 56 2.7 Bleached linen cambric 56 2.8 Spun viscose dress fabric 56 2.9 Filament nylon blouse and lingerie fabric 57 2.10 Filament nylon overall fabric 57 2.2 Medium-weight square plain cloths 57 2.3 Heavy-weight square plain fabrics 58 2.1 Light-weight cotton duck 58 2.2 Heavy-weight cotton duck 58 2.3 Thorn-proof tweed 58 2.4 Warp-faced plain cloths 58 2.2 Acetate dress poult 59 2.4 Cotton canvas for sports shoes 60 2.5 Cotton canvas for conveyor belts 60 2.5 Weft-faced plain cloth 60 2.2 Cotton casement cloth 60 © 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt.3 Cotton-mohair lining fabric 61 2.6 Voile fabrics 61 3 Twill weaves and their modification 63 3.2 Principle of construction 63 3.3 Characteristics of twill weaves 64 3.4 Classification or types of twills 64 3.1 Balanced and unbalanced twills 64 3.2 Construction of right hand (z) and left hand (s) twills 65 3.3 Stage-by-stage construction of twills 65 3.4 Effect of change in footing 65 3.5 Angle of a twill 66 3.6 Modification of twill weaves 68 3.1 Rearranged twills on sateen base 68 3.4 End-to-end combined twills 71 3.6 Pick-to-pick combination 72 3.7 Steep and flat twills 72 3.8 Pointed or wavy or zigzag twills 73 3.10 Diamonds and diaper twills 75 3.5 Special twill from plain derivatives 78 3.1 Twist-twill interaction (emphasizing a twill) 78 3.2 Commercial twills [Figs.18(a)–(e)] 80 © 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt.1 Three-end twills 80 3.2 Four-end twills 81 3.3 Five-end twill 81 3.6 Exercises for students 81 4 Sateen and satin weaves 83 4.1 Introduction and characteristics 83 4.2 Types of sateen 83 4.3 Construction of sateen 84 4.4 Examples on weft sateen 85 4.5 Construction of warp satin weaves 86 4.6 Draft and peg plan for sateens or satins 86 4.7 Modification of sateen 87 4.9 Satin checks 89 5 Colour-and-weave effects 91 5.1 Principles of colour-and-weave effects 91 5.2 Examples on colour and weave effect 92 5.1 Development of coloured stripe for plain with 1:1 colouring 92 5.2 Development of patterns with compound colouring93 5.4 Development of dogstooth and houndstooth 94 5.4 Birds eye view 95 5.5 Stripe and check effect 96 5.
Choose the correct answer from the alternatives given: 96 II. Answer the following questions: 97 6 Huck-a-back weaves 99 6.1 Scope of huck-a-back weaves 99 © 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt.2 Characteristics of huck-a-back toweling fabrics (requirements of water absorption) 100 6.3 Systematic construction of huck-a-back weave 100 6.1 Point paper representation [Figs.2 Modification of ordinary huck-a-back 101 6.1 Beaming, counts of yarns and type of loom 101 6.4 Drawing and denting arrangements 103 6.5 Research studies on huck-a-back weave 103 6.1 Features of honeycomb 104 6.2 How it absorbs water? 105 6.3 Classification of HC 105 6.4 Construction of ordinary HC 105 6.1 Simple ordinary HC (OHC) 105 6.2 Ends leaded HC [Figs.3 Picks leaded HC [Figs.5 Straight drafted HC 107 6.7 Why honeycomb is called a three-dimensional structure? 109 6.8 Ornamentation in HC 110 6.9 Distinction between OHC and BHC 110 Reference 111 7 Mock leno and distorted effects 113 7.2 Counts of yarn 113 7.3 Construction of design for perforated fabrics (principle of turn down) 113 © 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt.4 How exactly the openness is produced (weaving|arrangement) [Figs.5 Ornamentation of mock leno 115 7.6 Distorted thread effect 116 7.8 Exercise 117 Answer the following questions in not more than six sentences. 117 8 Crepe surface and crepe weaves (Oatmeal) 119 8.1 Construction of crepe weaves 119 8.2 On staeen base [Figs.3 By reversing small tufts (principle of turn down) 121 8.5 By combining a plain weave with a floating weave 122 8.6 Production of crepe yarns 123 8.7 Control of crepe figure 124 8.9 Examples of crepe fabrics 126 9 Bedford cords and piques 127 9.3 Classification of bedford cords 128 9.1 Simple or plain-faced bedford cords [Figs.4 Bedford cord with alternate picks 130 9.5 Wadded bedford cords 130 9.1 wadding ends and their arrangement in weaving 130 9.6 Twill-faced bedford cords [Figs.7 Welts or piques 133 © 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt.8 Types of threads and their arrangement (RTP) 133 9.9 Classification of piques 134 9.1 Simple or plain pique(single face or ground and cutting picks) 134 9.2 Loose back and fast back piques 135 9.3 Wadded and backed pique 135 9.4 How exactly the wadding picks are made to lie at centre [Figs.10 Weaving arrangements for piques 138 9.4 Distinction between bedford cords and piques 139 9.11 Exercises 140 Answer the following questions in two to four sentences: 140 10 Ornamentation of fabrics 141 10.1 What is meant by ornamentation? 141 10.2 Principles of ornamentation 141 10.3 Approaches for ornamentation of plain cloths 141 10.1 Use of colour 141 10.2 Use of fibres varying in geometry and substrate 142 10.3 By varying twist 142 10.4 By Varying count, sett and twist 142 10.4 Cockled, blistered and seersucker effects 142 10.1 Tension differences: seersucker 143 10.2 Special finishes 144 Index145 © 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. © 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Preface I feel elated in dedicating the first edition of book titled “Woven Fabric Structure and Production Planning” to my family, friends, world and Textile Fraternity.
Indeed, Woven Cloth Construction and Design is a very interesting subject for any reader and also gives insight about method of fabric production. Normally, a student feels that woven cloth construction is very tough subject. But in reality, the subject is very simple, interesting and stimulating. After teaching the subject since the past two and half decades, a challenge was always stedfast in my mind about writing a book on WCC with a simple approach; and finally I decided to dedicate my book to my Textile Fraternity.
Initially it was very hard for me to prepare all the designs separately on paper and then subsequently transfer to a printable base as I found certain designs are very difficult for representation. This book has made an attempt to discuss the simple or single layered structures only and I have provided the work sheets and incomplete designs for reader or students for further practice, which is not the case generally. An attempt is also made to describe the loom equipment and construction particulars in respective cases. Any suggestions in improving the quality and content of the book in any corner is most welcome and can be intimated to me so as to improve the readability and accessibility.
Lastly, I feel that the book shall fulfill the requirements of reader and will satisfy his/her demands.