Principles of FABRIC FORMATION Prabir Kumar Banerjee Principles of FABRIC FORMATION Principles of FABRIC FORMATION Prabir Kumar Banerjee CRC Press Taylor & Francis Group 6000 Broken Sound Parkway NW, Suite 300 Boca Raton, FL 33487-2742 © 2015 by Taylor & Francis Group, LLC CRC Press is an imprint of Taylor & Francis Group, an Informa business No claim to original U. Government works Version Date: 20141015 International Standard Book Number-13: 978-1-4665-5445-0 (eBook - PDF) This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the author and publisher cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials or the consequences of their use. The authors and publishers have attempted to trace the copyright holders of all material reproduced in this publication and apologize to copyright holders if permission to publish in this form has not been obtained.
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Visit the Taylor & Francis Web site at http://www.com and the CRC Press Web site at http://www.com Contents Preface. Textile Fabrics: An Overview. A Brief Outline of Various Fabric Formation Systems.4 Netting and Lacing Systems.4 Precision and Random Winding.5 Features of a Modern Surface-Driven Cone-Winding Machine.1 Ends-Opposed Pneumatic Splicing.2 Ends-Together Pneumatic Splicing.3 Principles of Pneumatic Splicing.4 Non-Pneumatic Splicers.2 Effects of Drum Groove Geometry.3 Elements of Warping Systems.3 Expandable Reed and Length-Measuring System.4 Drum for Winding Sections.2 Importance of Sizing.1 Desirable Nature of Bonds between Adhesives and Fiber Material.1 van der Waals Forces.2 Dipole–Dipole Interactions.2 Starch as a Suitable Material for Sizing Cotton.1 Boiling of Starch.4 Oxidation of Starch.5 Typical Behavior of Starch as Aqueous Suspension.3 Sizing of Synthetic Fibers.4 Hot Melt Adhesives.6 Controls on a Modern Sizing Machine.5 Special Sizing Systems.2 Single-End Sizing.3 Hot Melt Sizing.6 Features of New Sizing Methods. Basic Weaves and the Process of Drawing In.2 Identification of Warp and Weft.3 Introduction to the Basic Weaves.4 Repeat and Shift.5 Drafting and Lifting.6 Methods of Generating Weaves.7 Transformation Methods of Fabric Weave Design.8 Process of Drawing In.
Primary and Secondary Motions of a Weaving Loom.1 Basic Machine Elements.2 Principles of Shedding.2 Cyclic Variation in Yarn Strain.6 Geometry of Warp Line.7 Types of Shed.3 Principle of Shuttle Picking.2 Kinematics of a Picking System.2 Mechanics of the Beating-Up Process.1 Development of Crimp and Widthwise Contraction of Fabric.2 Stabilizing Fabric Width at the Reed.3 Cloth Fell Displacement during Beating Up.5 Principles of Take Up.6 Principles of Let Off.1 Negative Let-Off Motion.2 Positive Let-Off Motion.1 Variation in Warp Tension. Developments in Shedding Motions.1 Limitations of Shedding Tappet.2 Functional Principles of Dobby.1 Principle of Programming.3 Limitations of Dobby.3 Functional Principles of Jacquard.2 Limitations of Mechanical Jacquard.4 New Generation (Electronic) Jacquards.5 New Concepts of Jacquard Shedding.6 Next-Generation Shedding Systems. Developments in Weft Insertion Systems.1 Drawbacks of a Conventional System.2 Basic Principle of the Unconventional System.3 Functional Principles of Shuttleless Weft Insertion Systems.1 Partially Guided Solid Carrier.2 Fully Guided Solid Carrier.3 Basic Concepts of Fluid Carrier.4 Guided Fluid Carrier.5 Completely Unguided Fluid Carrier. Features of Modern Shuttleless Weaving Systems.1 Machine Drive and Power Consumption.2 Drive to Sley.4 Productivity and Fabric Quality.5 Application of Electronics.6 Application of Composite Materials.7 QSC and Automation in Drawing In.1 Modern Cone Winder.3 Modernization in Sizing.
Nonconventional Weaving Systems.2 Ripple Shed Weaving.3 Wave Shed Weaving.2 Narrow Fabric Weaving. Formation of Weft-Knitted Fabrics.3 Process of Loop Formation.4 Basic Weft Knits.1 Plain or Single Jersey.1 Derivatives of Single Jersey.2 Instability and Asymmetry of Plain Loop.1 Curling of Fabric Edges.2 Spirality of Wale Line.3 Stabilization of Knitted Structure.5 Conventions for Representation of Weft-Knitted Stitches.6 Systems of the Basic Weft-Knitting Machines.1 Needles and Beds.7 Sequence of Loop Formation.1 Loop Formation on Single Flat Bed.2 Loop Formation on Single Circular Bed.8 Guidelines on Control of the Knitting Process.1 Relationship between Machine Gauge and Yarn Count.2 Control of Loop Length.3 Productivity of Knitting Machines.9 Relationship between Geometry and Properties of a Loop.1 Importance of Loop Length and Loop Shape.2 Geometry of Weft-Knitted Loop.3 Some Useful Expressions.1 Fabric Areal Density.4 Tightness Factor of Fabric (TF). Formation of Warp-Knitted Fabrics.1 Warp-Knitting Machines.2 Basic Warp Knits.1 Convention for Representation of Stitches.2 Single Bar Knits.2 1 and 1 or Tricot Lap.3 Multi-Bar Warp Knit Constructions.3 Sequence of Loop Formation.1 Compound Needle on Tricot Machine.2 Latch Needle on Single-Bed Raschel.3 Latch Needle on Double-Bed Raschel.1 Special Features of Machine and Product.2 Special Features of Lapping Diagrams and Lapping Plans.4 Shogging Motion of Guide Bars.5 Some Important Warp Knits.1 Single-Bed Knits.3 Weft-Inserted Structures.4 Loop or Pile Structure.2 Double-Bed Spacer and Cut Plush Fabrics.6 Comparison of Warp-Knitting Process Vis-à-Vis Other Yarn-to-Fabric Conversion Processes. Formation of Braids.2 Geometry of Tubular Braids.3 Elements of a Tubular Braiding Machine.4 Differences between Flat and Tubular Braid.5 Limitations of Braiding Systems.
Formation of Nonwoven Fabrics.3 Fibers in Nonwoven Fabrics.4 Web Formation from Fibers.2 Laying of a Carded Web.5 Web Formation from Polymer Chips.1 Web Formation by Spunlaid Route.2 Web Formation by Meltblowing.3 Web Formation by Flashspinning and Electrospinning.6 Reinforcement of Web.1 Physics and Chemistry of Adhesive Binders.2 Method of Application of Binders to Nonwovens. Formation of Triaxial and Multiaxial 2-D and 3-D Fabrics.1 Woven Triaxial Fabric.1 Warp Guidance System.2 Beating Up System.2 Braided Triaxial Fabric.3 Comparison of Woven and Braided Triaxial Fabrics.2 Multiaxial Warp Knitting.4 Three-Dimensional Fabrics.1 Three-Dimensional Knitted Products.2 Three-Dimensional Braided Products.3 Three-Dimensional Woven Products.1 Formation of Three-Dimensional Flat Woven Products.2 Formation of Three-Dimensional Cylindrical Woven Products.5 Key Technological Concerns for 3-D Fabric-Formation Systems. 468 Preface Textile fabrics are intrinsically strong while being flexible, permeable, mold- able, and drapeable. In modern times, this porous continuum is being pro- gressively viewed as a useful engineering material in diverse applications as in civil constructions, such as roads, dams, or bridges; in vehicular construc- tions, such as aerospace ships or automobiles and trucks; in communication engineering as flexible conductive material for generation and transmission of signals or for digital display; in power generation in the form of flexible solar panels; in the medical field as biosensors or for construction of human body components; and so on and so forth.
Arguably then, not only students of conventional textile disciplines, but also of civil, mechanical, electrical, computer, materials science, medical, and associated disciplines would, in the future, have more than a cursory interest in acquiring a basic under- standing about the manner of formation of this unique material. The choice of topics covered in this book is based purely on the author’s subjective per- ception of the needs of an undergraduate engineering student who is in the process of acquiring a basic understanding about general principles of fabric- formation systems to become capable of making a conscious choice of the type of fabric that would be most appropriate for targeted end uses. An important dimension of a textbook is the depth of treatment of the topics handled. If a book is targeted at a very wide reader base, then the treatment and choice of topics have also to be appropriately extensive.
While targeting this book at undergraduate engineering students, the author had in view the limited time that such students have in pursuing one particu- lar subject during the period of graduation. Understandably, such students may also need in-depth insight into a particular aspect of a specific topic for pursuing a certain developmental work. The literature listed at the end of individual chapters should provide useful leads in this regard. All major fabric-formation systems, namely weaving, weft knitting, warp knitting, braiding, and nonwoven systems, have been covered in this book, and it ends with a chapter on triaxial, multiaxial, and three-dimensional fabric-formation systems.
In its character, the last chapter is apparently some- what different from that of rest of the book as the focus here is on the type of product. It is felt that this novel product constitutes a new class of engi- neering material and therefore needs to be brought to the notice of future engineers. The reader can discern a greater weightage accorded in this book to the topic of weaving, which is partly caused by the necessity of going into salient features of weaving preparatory processes, namely winding, warping, and sizing, and partly by the complexity, flexibility, wide range, and scale of weav- ing machines globally in use. Each type of weaving machine, whether it be xiii xiv Preface an under-picking power loom, one of the four types of shuttlelesslooms, a nar- row fabric loom, or a circular loom, is commercially important and engaged in the production of a specific range of woven fabrics.
Moreover, each of these types of weaving machines, along with multiphase looms, has a unique tech- nological dimension and hence merits inclusion in a book of this kind. This same argument could also be applied for flat-knitting and sock-knitting sys- tems, both of which have been bypassed in this edition while dealing with the topic of weft knitting. It must be underlined, however, that this act of omission is guided by the author’s perception that weft-knitted construc- tions are yet to attain desired dimensions needed for developing a range of engineering materials although some technical applications of weft knits, such as in compression garments, biosensors, or spacer fabrics, are fairly well established. Indeed, knotted constructions are, in this sense, more important, and it is hoped that the system of knotted fabric formation would find due place in future editions.
Quite clearly, decisions that the author had to make in terms of choice of topics and depth of treatment are open to scrutiny by the readers. It is hoped that this first edition would provoke a constructive and rational response that would provide guidance for future modifications and alterations. Moreover, in spite of sincere efforts to avoid mistakes, many must have remained unde- tected by a lone pair of eyes. I am sure that a larger body of readers would be able to spot such errors more easily and bring them to the notice of the author.
Prabir Kumar Banerjee Acknowledgments The author would like to use this opportunity to pay homage and respect to the late Prof. Heinz Hollstein of TH, Karl-Marx-Stadt of the erstwhile GDR, currently TU, Chemnitz of Germany, who guided him into the world of academics during the doctoral program and whose two-volume book Fertigungstechnik Weberei has been extensively used in preparing a part of this book. The author is also grateful to Prof. Deepti Gupta and her postgrad- uate student B.
Shanmugam as well as Prof. Kushal Sen of IIT, Delhi for the material support provided by them during preparation of the manuscript and to Khasti Pujari for taking immense pain in preparing the diagrams of this book. A special mention must also be made of Mriganka Sekhar Naskar who permitted the author a free run of his establishment for studying closely and collecting critical information on narrow fabric looms. The author gratefully acknowledges permissions granted by M/S CCI Tech, Inc.
of Hong Kong, M/S CRC Press of Florida, M/S ITEMA S. of Italy, M/S Karl Mayer of Germany, M/S Lohia Starlinger of India, M/S Savio Macchine Tessili S.