Garment Manufacturing Technology The Textile Institute and Woodhead Publishing The Textile Institute is a unique organisation in textiles, clothing and footwear. Incorporated in England by a Royal Charter granted in 1925, the Institute has individual and corporate members in over 90 countries. The aim of the Institute is to facilitate learning, recognise achievement, reward excellence and dissem- inate information within the global textiles, clothing and footwear industries. Historically, The Textile Institute has published books of interest to its mem- bers and the textile industry.
To maintain this policy, the Institute has entered into partnership with Woodhead Publishing Limited to ensure that Institute members and the textile industry continue to have access to high calibre titles on textile science and technology. Most Woodhead titles on textiles are now published in collaboration with The Textile Institute. Through this arrangement, the Institute provides an Editorial Board which advises Woodhead on appropriate titles for future publication and suggests possible editors and authors for these books. Each book published under this arrangement carries the Institute’s logo.
Woodhead books published in collaboration with The Textile Institute are offered to Textile Institute members at a substantial discount. These books, together with those published by The Textile Institute that are still in print, are offered on the Elsevier website at: http://store. Textile Insti- tute books still in print are also available directly from the Institute’s website at: www. A list of Woodhead books on textile science and technology, most of which have been published in collaboration with The Textile Institute, can be found towards the end of the contents pages.
Related titles Gupta and Zakaria, Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design, Woodhead, 2014, 9780857096814 Wong and Guo, Fashion Supply Chain Management Using Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) Technologies, Woodhead, 2014, 9780857098054 Sinclair, Textiles and Fashion, Woodhead, 2014, 9781845699314 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles: Number 168 Garment Manufacturing Technology Edited by Rajkishore Nayak and Rajiv Padhye AMSTERDAM • BOSTON • CAMBRIDGE • HEIDELBERG LONDON • NEW YORK • OXFORD • PARIS • SAN DIEGO SAN FRANCISCO • SINGAPORE • SYDNEY • TOKYO Woodhead Publishing is an imprint of Elsevier Published by Woodhead Publishing in association with The Textile Institute Woodhead Publishing is an imprint of Elsevier 80 High Street, Sawston, Cambridge, CB22 3HJ, UK 225 Wyman Street, Waltham, MA 02451, USA Langford Lane, Kidlington, OX5 1GB, UK Copyright © 2015 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of the publisher. Permissions may be sought directly from Elsevier’s Science & Technology Rights Department in Oxford, UK: phone (+44) (0) 1865 843830; fax (+44) (0) 1865 853333; email: permissions@elsevier.
Alternatively you can submit your request online by visiting the Elsevier website at http://elsevier.com/locate/permissions, and selecting Obtaining permission to use Elsevier material. Notice No responsibility is assumed by the publisher for any injury and/or damage to persons or property as a matter of products liability, negligence or otherwise, or from any use or operation of any methods, products, instructions or ideas contained in the material herein. Because of rapid advances in the medical sciences, in particular, independent verification of diagnoses and drug dosages should be made. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Library of Congress Control Number: 2015932737 ISBN 978-1-78242-232-7 (print) ISBN 978-1-78242-239-6 (online) For information on all Woodhead Publishing publications visit our website at http://store.com/ Contents List of contributors xi Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles xiii 1 Introduction: the apparel industry 1 R.2 Global scenario of apparel manufacturing 4 1.3 Challenges in apparel production 10 1.4 Role of various organisations 12 1.6 Conclusions 15 References 15 Part One Product development, production planning and selection of materials 19 2 Product development in the apparel industry 21 M.2 Product-development models and product-development process 22 2.3 Variations in apparel product development: demand-led product development 29 2.4 Apparel product-development technologies 32 2.5 Apparel product standards, specifications, quality assurance and product technical package 33 2.6 Apparel product life-cycle management (PLM) and supply-chain relationships 41 2.7 Measures for apparel product development 43 2.8 Future trends in apparel product development 44 2.9 Case studies: PD tools and technologies 49 2.11 Sources of further information and advice 55 References 56 vi Contents 3 Role of fabric properties in the clothing-manufacturing process 59 B.2 Fabric properties and performance 59 3.3 Garment make-up process and fabric properties 61 3.4 Low-stress mechanical properties and make-up process 63 3.6 Fabric tailorability, buckling and formability 69 3.8 Conclusions 79 References 80 4 Production planning in the apparel industry 81 S.4 Production planning and control in the apparel industry 88 4.5 Supply chain management in the apparel industry 94 4.7 Manufacturing performance improvement through lean production 99 4.9 Human resource management 104 4.10 New tools developed in production planning 105 Acknowledgments 105 References 105 5 Fabric sourcing and selection 109 A.5 Conclusions 127 References 127 6 Selecting garment accessories, trims, and closures 129 K.1 Part 1: introduction to garment accessories 129 6.2 Part 2: selecting garment accessories 129 6.3 Part 3: selecting supporting materials 136 6.4 Part 4: selecting closures 138 6.5 Part 5: accessories for children’s wear 145 6.6 Part 6: evaluation of quality of trims and accessories 148 Contents vii 6.7 Part 7: fashion accessories 150 6.8 Conclusions 183 Acknowledgments 183 Bibliography 183 Part Two Garment design and production 185 7 Garment sizing and fit 187 R.2 Geometry of the human form 188 7.3 The human figure divided into body proportions 189 7.4 Garment size charts 193 7.5 Development of garment size charts 194 7.6 Sizing and fit systems 197 7.7 Three-dimensional (3D) body scanning – current and potential future applications in clothing manufacture and retailing 200 7.9 Sources of further information 201 Acknowledgements 202 References 202 8 Pattern construction 205 K.2 Pattern construction modes 206 8.3 Body, material and design 208 8.4 Pattern construction tools 213 8.6 2D and 3D CAD Web sites 219 Acknowledgements 219 References 219 9 Fabric spreading and cutting 221 I.2 Cut process planning 221 9.3 Spreading of textile materials 223 9.4 Cutting of textile materials 230 9.5 Fusing of cut textile components 240 9.6 Final work operations of the cutting process 242 9.9 Sources of further information 245 viii Contents 10 Sewing, stitches and seams 247 G.7 Sources of further information and advice 272 References 273 11 Sewing equipment and work aids 275 P.2 Different bed types in industrial sewing machines 275 11.3 Different feed types in industrial sewing machines 280 11.4 Cyclic sewing machines 289 11.5 Computerised sewing machines 291 11.10 Future trends and conclusions 312 11.11 Sources of further information and advice 313 References 314 12 Sewing-room problems and solutions 317 M.2 Seam pucker and other surface distortions 317 12.3 Sewing defects caused by needles 322 12.4 Material feeding and associated problems 324 12.5 Problems in stitch formation 325 12.9 Sources of further information and advice 334 References 334 13 Alternative fabric-joining technologies 337 E.1 Alternatives to sewing 337 13.3 Conventional thermal welding 356 13.4 Advanced thermal-welding processes 363 13.5 Conclusions 370 References 371 Contents ix 14 Seamless garments 373 N.3 Common seamless products 376 14.5 Seamless knitting machines 377 14.6 Advantages of seamless garments 379 14.7 Disadvantages of seamless garments 380 14.8 Applications of seamless garments 381 14.10 Conclusions 382 References 383 Part Three Garment finishing, quality control, care labelling and costing 385 15 Garment-finishing techniques 387 S.2 Garment finishing for functionality 388 15.4 Denim garment finishing 396 15.7 Conclusions 402 References 402 16 Quality control and quality assurance in the apparel industry 405 C.2 Quality control in the apparel industry 406 16.5 Sources of further information and advice 425 References 425 17 Care labelling of clothing 427 R.2 Requirements of care labelling 427 17.3 Definition of care label 429 17.4 Care labelling systems 431 17.6 Conclusions 445 References 446 x Contents 18 Garment costing 447 A.3 Cost classification 449 18.5 Measures of efficiency 451 18.7 Garment sales element analysis 454 18.9 Managing cost through inventory control 463 18.10 Apparel costing sheet analysis 464 18.11 Conclusions 467 References 467 Index 469 List of contributors N.
Bansal The Technological Institute of Textile and Sciences, Bhiwani, India B. Behera Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi, India S. Bhattacharyya The Technological Institute of Textile and Sciences, Bhiwani, India H. Carvalho University of Minho, Guimar~aes, Portugal M.
Carvalho University of Minho, Guimar~aes, Portugal K. Chatterjee The Technological Institute of Textile and Sciences, Bhiwani, India G. Colovic The College of Textile – Design, Technology and Management, Belgrade, Serbia S. Das Faculty of Science, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University, Port Elizabeth, South Africa S.
Fergusson RMIT University, Melbourne, VIC, Australia F. Ferreira University of Minho, Guimar~aes, Portugal T. Grover The Technological Institute of Textile and Sciences, Bhiwani, India A. Jadhav RMIT University, Melbourne, VIC, Australia P.
Jana National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi, India Y. Jhanji The Technological Institute of Textile and Sciences, Bhiwani, India C. Keist Western Illinois University, Macomb, IL, USA K. Kennedy RMIT University, Melbourne, VIC, Australia N.
Nawaz School of Fashion and Textiles, RMIT University, Melbourne, VIC, Australia R. Nayak School of Fashion and Textiles, RMIT University, Melbourne, VIC, Australia K. Nijhar Yum Productions Pty. Ltd, Melbourne, VIC, Australia xii List of contributors R.
Padhye School of Fashion and Textiles, RMIT University, Melbourne, VIC, Australia R. Pandarum University of South Africa, Florida, South Africa A. Patnaik Faculty of Science, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University, Port Elizabeth, South Africa; CSIR Materials Science and Manufacturing, Polymers and Composites Competence Area, Nonwovens and Composite Group, Port Elizabeth, South Africa E. Petrie Independent Consultant, Cary, NC, USA M.
Senanayake California State Polytechnic University, Pomona, CA, USA L. Silva University of Minho, Guimar~aes, Portugal A. Singh RMIT University, Melbourne, VIC, Australia A. Vijayan RMIT University, Melbourne, VIC, Australia I.
Vilumsone-Nemes Technical Faculty ‘Michael Pupin’, University of Novi Sad, Novi Sad, Serbia W. Yu Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong SAR, China Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles 1 Watson’s textile design and colour Seventh edition Edited by Z. Grosicki 2 Watson’s advanced textile design Edited by Z. Grosicki 3 Weaving Second edition P.
Mohamed 4 Handbook of textile fibres Volume 1: Natural fibres J. Gordon Cook 5 Handbook of textile fibres Volume 2: Man-made fibres J. Gordon Cook 6 Recycling textile and plastic waste Edited by A. Horrocks 7 New fibers Second edition T.
Phillips 8 Atlas of fibre fracture and damage to textiles Second edition J. Cooke 9 Ecotextile ’98 Edited by A. Horrocks 10 Physical testing of textiles B. Saville 11 Geometric symmetry in patterns and tilings C.
Horne 12 Handbook of technical textiles Edited by A. Anand 13 Textiles in automotive engineering W. Hardcastle 14 Handbook of textile design J. Wilson 15 High-performance fibres Edited by J.
Hearle 16 Knitting technology Third edition D. Spencer 17 Medical textiles Edited by S. Anand 18 Regenerated cellulose fibres Edited by C. Woodings 19 Silk, mohair, cashmere and other luxury fibres Edited by R.
Franck xiv Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles 20 Smart fibres, fabrics and clothing Edited by X. Tao 21 Yarn texturing technology J. Wilson 22 Encyclopedia of textile finishing H-K. Rouette 23 Coated and laminated textiles W.
Fung 24 Fancy yarns R. Wright 25 Wool: Science and technology Edited by W. Crawshaw 26 Dictionary of textile finishing H-K. Rouette 27 Environmental impact of textiles K.
Slater 28 Handbook of yarn production P. Lord 29 Textile processing with enzymes Edited by A. Cavaco-Paulo and G. G€ubitz 30 The China and Hong Kong denim industry Y.
Yeung 31 The World Trade Organization and international denim trading Y. Newton 32 Chemical finishing of textiles W. Hauser 33 Clothing appearance and fit J. Hunter 34 Handbook of fibre rope technology H.
O’Hear 35 Structure and mechanics of woven fabrics J. Hu 36 Synthetic fibres: Nylon, polyester, acrylic, polyolefin Edited by J. McIntyre 37 Woollen and worsted woven fabric design E. Gilligan 38 Analytical electrochemistry in textiles P.